Havana and on Reflection of Cuba

Che Guevara is never far away in Cuba

Havana

Finally arriving back in Havana after visiting Varadero, Viñales and Pinar del Rio there were certain areas and photographs I wanted to depict what I felt I had seen in Havana and Cuba as a whole.  So; what people do in their daily routine of life and what they tend to wear along with the way that life works when living here.

When you are on the road you tend to see things either very quickly or just sporadically and spending time in a place gives you a real insight as to what can be found and a real reflection of living there.  For me this means watching people pass by in their own worlds and trying to catch this moment in a photograph, be it what they are wearing, what they are carrying, and the mode of transport they use or who they are with. 

As an avid anthropologist documenting people’s lives and way of life is important to me and keeping as untouched as possible is the key.

I have two weeks in Havana and I will venture out to smaller communities whilst I am here to see how people live and to speak with them and see what they feel about Havana, it’s not a long time to spend in a quite vast city.   However I am sure so capture a small piece of Cuban life to take away with me to cherish!

Cuba

On reflection my trip across Cuba has been a long road trip with nearly 5000 kilometres covered in that time and over 20 key places in Cuba visited along the way and without doubt Cubans are very considerate and helpful, which makes you feel and at home here.

José my guide has shown me some amazing things and introduced me to some fabulous people and I now have some great friends here in Cuba to return once more to this wondrous land.

I have learnt that Cuba is much like South America; manána (tomorrow) is soon enough, and if you know the right people and speak the right language then anything is possible here and I challenge anyone not to enjoy themselves in Cuba.

Yes, it is most definitely expensive and whether you have a few days on the local currency, the other day’s sure make up for what you saved and in years to come in will probably get more expensive, so get there before it changes and becomes a drive-through-take-away-fast-food-fiesta.

Many of those I have met travelling say the same thing ‘I am here before it changes into one great big MacDonald’s!’ and I really hope this doesn’t happen, but as a realist I know that commercialism will change Cuba but it’s the people that make this country what it is.

With Che Guevara having freed Cuba to the people with Fidel Castro I hope that in time it is released to them with freedom and not as a measured and limited amount of freedom with the way that communism has treated the Cubans, this would be great to see. 

I am not condemning how Cuba has been run in the past as there are many happy people here, but one thing I know for sure is that for a Cuban to leave the country to go on holiday to Europe, it takes forever with the government.  It costs them nearly £1,000 just for documentation costs before flights and a hotel. 

The average wage is 10 CUC (£7.50 per month) and that’s to some like Panama which is only a couple of hours away it seems that it is almost impossible for many Cubans to ever dream of leaving to see another country.

Cubans have the right to see the outside world past their TV sets and to have the freedom to travel much the same as their beloved Che Guevara, and I hope that they are welcomed with open arms after all that this beautiful country and people have given in the past.

I would like to thank all the wonderful people I have met here and the fantastic time they have showed me, and I look forward to returning once again.

Jay

Pinar del Rio

Mural at Pinar del Rio

Pinar del Rio is a sleepy town with most of the life happening in the main street of this tobacco orientated town where the local hardened people with leathery skin smoke their cigars and wander the streets.

There are some extraordinary buildings here and some and actually rotting away before your eyes as the mould falls from the pillars of some the buildings sat close by to buildings that have had some major work done and stand out in stunning colours.  Be sure to look out for the murals here they are the best I have seen in Cuba.

You will not find too much to do here as buses pass by towards Viñales and once a week to Maria la Gorda where you can dive at some of Cuba’s most amazing dive sites.

Jay

Viñales

Vinales Landscape

From Havana to Viñales is a 2 hour drive and along the way you will come to a cigar farm where the tourists flock to see the cigar leaves hanging in a purpose built building made from wood.  They select the leaves for each type of cigar and this is how they depict whether they are for Montecristo or Cohiba cigars and the type of Montecristo or Cohiba cigars as they are many variations.

It was interesting to see the tourist’s mill in and out of the farm and the locals helpfully assist them in purchasing cigars and other souvenirs from the café/shop that is also on site.  After reading a particular travel guide it stated that Viñales has not yet been subjected to tourism, well that needs severely revising because just at the farm alone stood 7 bus loads of tourists and that’s before I even got to Viñales.

Cuba as a whole is not yet the tourist overloaded island but you can begin to see that in the next 5 years that will change and should communism move over to accept the import and export of goods and cabled internet to be brought in then I can only imagine how quickly things will change.

Valle de Viñales is stunningly beautiful and the landscapes across this area are jaw dropping as you stare at the worn rocks from where the river once flowed and left behind natural caves and crevasses in the side of the mountains.

I also visited the one of the caves sites (Cueva del Indio) which has boats that take you from inside for a 10 minute journey for 5CUC along the river flowing inside the cave and comes to a mooring site where directly outside is a restaurant and souvenir shop.   It is very interesting to see these caves but don’t feel obliged to spend 5CUC for a 10 minute journey when the walk across the Viñales landscape is far more inspiring and interesting.

Just outside Viñales sits Mural de la Prehistoria where 15 people over 5 years painted various depictions of dinosaurs and people on the mountainside.  It’s not necessary to get up close because the best view is from afar and it also gives you a true view of the size of the work that these people took on to complete the mural.  It is similar to the Prehistorical statues in Santiago de Cuba, it seems that they were seen as a way of attracting people to the site and both work very well in doing this.

From Viñales I headed to Pinar del Rio…..

Jay

Varadero

Varadero on the Beach

Varadero has definitely awoken to tourism in no uncertain terms with hotels everywhere and outside of the main city centre huge hotels sit across the landscape.  As you stroll through town, tourists mingle and different languages pass your ears one by one, with British, Italian and Spanish tourists making up a majority of the numbers.

Many of these hotels are all inclusive and should you decide to want rock up and find accommodation once you have arrived then do not expect to find cheap pension houses as this is prohibited and the authorities threaten to take the local Cubans homes so they don’t bother.

It is easy enough to find a hotel for 25CUC a night and should you wish you can also take the all inclusive deals and sit on the beach or by the pool (depending on which hotel you stay at) and drink most of the day and have all you can eat.

Unesco World Heritage are protecting several of the buildings and at present you will still see some that are in desperate in need of repair even protected buildings need repair and maybe Unesco World Heritage need to revisit this, so get the photos while you can.

I wandered up and down the vast beach and was pleased to see how clean it was with very little debris to be seen; the odd Cristal beer can I think in this day and age is good compared to some beaches around the world today with polluted and often littered strewn beaches.

There are plenty of water sports to do and there is also the National Reserve which is only for tourists, I hope that the Cubans were able to see it before as this would be shame otherwise but Varadero is much the same as Cayo Coco and is now aimed primarily at tourism.

To get to Varadero it is only a 2 hour drive from Havana and there other places close by and within a day excursion and return to Varadero should you wish to, but remember that it is set-up for beach holidays in the first instance.

Jay

Havana Revisited

Havanas Capital Building

As seems to always be the case when you return to a city once again, you grow to know it a little more and the peculiarities and commonalities become second nature to you.   Upon my return to Havana I have a little more savvy about what Havana is about, where to buy things I need, how to get around and of course what parts of the city had I missed before I left to see the rest of Cuba.

The buildings in Havana range from ‘In Disrepair’ to ‘Recently Renovated into a Hotel or Restaurant’ with the often narrow streets of the old town winding through the city and coming to dead ends with pillars in the road and the malecon stretching out along the front of Havana.

The women of Cuba in general are beautiful and here in Havana they are in their element, dressing in often simple but stylish clothing, walking with an air of grace and confidence but still remaining friendly and approachable.  The men are a little different, tending to be just as approachable but tend to dress a lot more casually than the women and spend most of their time whistling or tooting their car horns to attract the attention of the women, which is often greeted with a smile of ‘yes, I know I look good, thank you!’.

Some tips to eating in the city would be to eat along the malecon if you wish to pay local prices in the local peso and not the CUC but ensure you speak Spanish well enough to ask for what you want, or head to the side streets or the old town for affordable eating but in CUC.  If you wish to eat lobster then I would suggest not eating in the old town where you will be charged as a tourist and to head to either the side streets or to the more local restaurants, however you pay a lot less than in Europe that’s without a question.

When staying in Havana you can either stay at the high end hotels (some of which are not really high end just the pricing), or rent an apartment via a contact within Havana which is not to difficult to do, knowing that many Cubans make their income form renting their places, or rooms out.

Buses in and out of the city from the local districts or to the beach are from 1 local peso for a single journey or 3 local pesos for a return journey to the beach.  The main train station is also within the main city area with a small selection of the old trains fenced off for the public and tourists to see along with one of the main old city walls from when the Spanish would close the city at night and lock the doors.

Try not to forget the closing of the city which is still done via a ceremony of firing a canon at 9pm each night only now the city has just parts of the wall still erect for tourists and a sombre reminder of what Havana was once like under the Spanish rule.

Most Cubans will tell you that they are awaiting a serve change in the way of communism finally departing from Cuba and the Cuban people being able to freely do things without the police or military taking acceptation to driving down a road for instance.  The power does need to be given back to people after all that Che Guevara fought for; it seems that the Cubans were freed from the US but in turn subjected to communist rule under Fidel Castro which is different from China’s communist rule but still has it limitations on the Cuban people.

A single currency would possibly assist in moving towards a new era for Cuba along with freedom to openly meet and talk to foreigners without looks and questions from the police or immigration officials who seem to often misuse their power as and when they wish to.

Jay

Trinidad

Horse Riding Through the Streets of Trinidad at the Carnival

Trinidad is a remarkably picturesque place with the cobbled stoned roads protected by security and only allowing you past if you have a card or contact for a place to stay in that area which is in the heart of Trinidad.  Only a short walk away was the famous plaza where live music played at night, although many tourists frequented this plaza it was great to relax and have a drink and speak to speak to the locals.

The carnival commenced the following day and the town was awash with young men and women riding their horses through the cobbled roads in the city centre.  That evening there was a buzz around with people getting into the spirit of the carnival, which is not like the famous Brazilian carnival or Colombian carnival but more of a chance the townspeople to meet and eat from the many food stalls and fill up 2 litre plastic bottles with the local beer which is passed around the group they are with.

There are dancing competitions and various bands playing throughout the night and early hours, the carnival lasts for 3 days.

Trinidad is like a picture postcard city with colourful plazas and houses all around the city centre, it also has a beautiful beach area and a small market area where you are able to buy locally made table cloths, hand weaved baskets and hats, Che Guevara memorabilia and of course boxes Cuban cigars.

I was shown a house where I was offered black market cigars and a cut price deal, which seemed a better bet than the many touts that try to sell you the odd cigar for astronomical prices.

The accommodation here was a lovely house-come-hotel with quaint rooms and rooftop view of Trinidad which was a glorious view as the sunset over the city every evening.  Food here was fantastic and the hosts washed all my clothes for the first time of the trip, it has to be said though washing your clothes at a private pension house can be very expensive and I would not suggest doing this to frequently.

Much can be said about withdrawing cash from banks at an astronomical 11% of whatever you withdraw, so $400 works out at $450, so try to bring cash and not use your cards unless really necessary.

 From Trinidad I head back to Havana to visit Varadero and Viñales from Havana.

Jay

Cayo Coco

Cayo Coco Flamingo's

With its purpose built road after you have left Moron begins the long road surrounded by the sea on either side which is a remarkably good road and they seem to be repairing parts and replacing other places of the road.  You are greeted by a huge yellow crowned building at the start of the road and then the road diminishes into the distance, as you approach Cayo Coco the sea is replaced by small lakes teaming with Flamingos.

 Cayo Coco is another of Cuba’s purpose built resort complex where hotels are popping up every month with a view to rival Varadero as the main tourist islands in Cuba.  Cayo Coco is the 4^th largest Cuban island and the beaches are sublime along with food and drink available at the beach bars, be prepared to pay the same as at a hotel though and loungers can also be hired at the beach.

 For nature enthusiasts like myself this is a haven for photographing and watching the wildlife go by, Flamingos a plenty, like lizards resting on rocks, and vultures search the roads as they do throughout Cuba, you are never far from one of these birds and Cuba has hundreds of them.   There are also lots of different animals around Cayo Coco but I’m not sure that the so-called Flamingo Tours would be necessary based on there are three main places to see them and one of these seems to be no longer attracting them.

Jay

Moron

Moron is a relatively small town compared to say Holguin or Camagüey but don’t let this put you off as there are more photo opportunities here than in most larger towns or cities with a beautiful train station with a beautiful stained glass roof.  The train station is surrounded by lavish and expensive houses and there are more chances in this one town for photos typical of Cuban life and what Cuba is renowned for, such as the horse drawn carts, American cars, and Spanish houses.

 Take your time to walk around the town and watch things just happen as you watch life go by, the one building that did intrigue me and yet confuse me was as you head out of Moron and cross the rail tracks and an old hotel on the corner sits there with what looked like an old digital clock, except I am not sure it was.

 This was the next place I stayed after Santiago de Cuba with a view to saving a days travelling by getting this far back up Cuba and to be able to see other places in Cuba.   Definitely the most comfortable bed, with an extremely spacious room for a family, a good sized shower and food was glorious.  The hosts were a lovely couple in a stunning colonial building which can only be described as something similar to a penthouse apartment and again for 25CUC.

Jay

Guardalavaca

Flowers of Guardalavaca

Guardalavaca has a fantastic beach and some simple outstanding carvings made in several branches and trees that have been put on the beach and used to attract tourists.   As soon as you start to look at them or take photos be sure that you’ll be offered local carvings for a good price, or so I was told by the guy on the beach touting for business anyway.

 Guardalavaca has many hotels and is set-up to accommodate, feed and entertain the tourists that arrive here, if you are looking for an all inclusive holiday then is sure to know Guardalavaca may be one of the places you end up in Cuba.   It’s surrounded by stunning fauna and flora, the sea is very inviting and there are several water sports available for you to choose from. 

 I prefer Santa Lucia but for those who speak little Spanish and just want sit on a beach and relax then Guardalavaca would suit you down to the ground.   Only 45minutes drive from Holguin it’s very accessible and you will notice the price changes from Holguin and Guardalavaca.

Jay

Holguin

Holguin "Boy in the City'

As you enter Holguin you see the huge beer vats for Crystal, Bucanero and other beers made here in Holguin, it also has some quite peculiar and very original statues and ornaments’. One the main road from Guardalavaca back into Holguin you come across a waterfall which has a Totem Pole looking statue surrounded by what can only be described as Mayan looking frogs, the water wasn’t on when we passed by.   Then there’s a small boy on the roof of a house which seems to of been put there by the owners and again it seems quite out of place in Holguin.

 Holguin is a mix of blocks of buildings where I visited with friends who where going to see their family, they tend to be very basic inside and during hot weather offer little or no protection from Cuba’s heat and they tend to be surrounded by bad roads and debris.   However something you will find about Cubans, it’s not about where they live it’s about how they can entertain you and coffee will be the first thing that they will offer, knowing if you are a foreigner that you can not drink the water.     

 Holguin also has another structure of a huge man with his horse and a windmill in the back ground all structured from metal and are quite something to behold sat neatly in between two roads.  Then if you get time take the road up to the old look out which also has an old military building which gives you a full 360% view of Holguin which is quite astounding.

Jay